introduction
If you’re a shooter who likes to reload, you’ve probably wondered: Can you reload steel case ammo? And what about nickel plated brass? Let’s break it down.
CAN YOU RELOAD STEEL CASE AMMO?
Technically, yes — but it’s not ideal.
Steel cases can be reloaded, but most experienced reloaders will tell you it’s more trouble than it’s worth. While steel cases do put more wear on your dies, the primary hurdle with reloading steel cases is they’re often Berdan primed. To reload steel cases, you’ll need to learn about Berdan primed cases.
RELOADING BERDAN PRIMED STEEL CASES
Instead of a single central flash hole common on US made ammo that use Boxer style primers, Berdan cases use two smaller offset flash holes and have an integral anvil formed into the primer pocket. Because of this design, standard de-priming pins that push primers out through the flash hole cannot be used.
To remove Berdan primers, reloaders typically use one of two methods:
- Hydraulic Method
- The case is filled with water.
- A close fitting rod is inserted into the case mouth.
- A sharp strike on the rod generates hydraulic pressure inside the case, pushing the primer out of the pocket.
- Piercing and Prying Method
- A specialized tool pierces the primer cup.
- The tool’s hook is then used to lever and pull the primer out from the rear.
Beyond the difficulty of removal, Berdan primers themselves are often hard to source. For this reason, many reloaders choose to convert Berdan primer pockets into Boxer primer pockets. This process is labor intensive and involves:
- Drilling out the integral anvil.
- Swaging the pocket to the correct Boxer primer dimensions.
- Removing the burr left behind from swaging.
While possible, this conversion is complicated, time consuming, janky and is generally only worthwhile for rare or otherwise valuable cases.
DRILLING ANVIL OUT OF BERDAN PRIMED CASES
SWAGING ADDITIONAL MATERIAL FROM CASES
GRINDING OFF BURR & THE FINAL RESULT
HOW TO RELOAD NICKEL PLATED BRASS
Unlike steel cases, nickel plated brass is generally reloadable and does not require any modification to the primer pockets. The thin layer of nickel is added on top of the exterior of the brass case to improve corrosion resistance while also providing smoother feeding and extraction.
This makes nickel plated brass especially useful for defensive carry ammunition that may be stored for long periods or for shooters in coastal environments where standard brass can tarnish quickly. However, there are some important drawbacks to keep in mind if you plan to reload nickel plated cases.
The issue with reloading nickel-plated brass is that brass is much softer than nickel plating. During firing the brass can flow while the nickel does not, causing the plating to crack and delaminate leaving hard flakes of nickel in your reloading dies and firearm action that can accelerate wear.
If you choose to reload your nickel plated brass, follow the same process as you would for traditional, all-brass/non-plated cases. Be mindful to inspect your cases as you reload to watch for any issues with the nickel finish.
CONCLUSION:
When it comes to reloading, not all cases are created equal. Steel cases can technically be reloaded, but it is such a huge time sink to remove the Berdan primers that it’s usually beneficial to go through the laborious process of converting them to accept standard boxer primers.
Nickel plated brass is far more reloader friendly since it comes Boxer primed, but its plating can crack or flake after just a few firings. Those hard nickel flakes may end up in your dies or action and accelerate wear, so caution is advised.
In the end, brass remains the gold standard for reliable, repeatable reloading. Steel and nickel plated can be reloaded if you are determined, but for consistent performance and long case life, sticking with quality boxer primed brass is the clear choice.
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